The story of the churning of the ocean and the tussle between the Devas and the Asuras holds great significance in Hinduism. One lesser known temple down south associated with this legend is the Amirthakadeshwar Temple, nestled in the idyllic village of Melakadambur, about 32 km from Chidambaram and 4 km from Kaattumannarkoil. Set in what was once a vast kadamba forest, the scenic beauty of the temple that dates back over a thousand years and the serene atmosphere instantly captivate the visitor.
To hark back to the link between the churning of the ocean and the temple, legend has it that once the nectar was obtained after the churning, the Devas began consuming it without offering obeisance to Lord Ganesha. This angered Him and He took away the pot containing the nectar (amritham in Tamil). While passing through the kadamba forest, a drop of the nectar fell on the ground and it became a Swayambu Linga. Meanwhile, Lord Indra and the Devas rushed to Lord Ganesha to seek his pardon whereupon he told them to worship Lord Shiva who had manifested as the Linga. Lord Shiva then doled out the nectar and stayed on at the place (Melakadambur) and eventually came to be known as Amirthakadeshwar—Amirtha (nectar) Kad (pot) Eshwar (another name for Shiva).
The temple per se is not very large or imposing, but its architecture is clearly unique. It dates back to the days of Kulottunga Chola I, 1075-1120, and the style of architecture is probably aforerunner of the Sun Temple at Konark, as the eastern Ganga ruler Narasimha was a distant relative of Kulottunga Chola I. Built in the shape of a chariot on wheels, two on either side, the sanctum sanctorum housing Lord Amirthakadeshwar is accommodated inside this chariot. The linga is believed to be made out of the ingredients of nine herbs and on specific days in the year, the rays of the sun and the moon fall on it which is another remarkable feature. Interestingly the left wheel of the chariot is stuck to the earth and there is a story about how Lord Ganesha pressed it down. It was His way of teaching a lesson when Lord Indra in an attempt to move the Shivalinga to Indraloka converted the temple into a rath (chariot) in order to save his mother Aditi the trouble of coming to the temple every day. The consort of Lord Shiva here—Vidyujyotinayaki—is said to be an amalgam of all the three Shakthis (Durga, Lakshmi and Saraswathi) and fervently prayed to by those seeking the boons of marriage and childbirth.
Equally interesting is the processional deity which is a prized bronze belonging to the 10th century depicting a 10-armed dancing Shiva and can be viewed only once in a fortnight. This rare panchaloha idol of Lord Vrushuaba Thandava Murthy, dancing on his Vrishab (or bull) with all the devas crowding at his feet is believed to be a Pala dynasty idol. The Pala dynasty incidentally ruled over Bengal and was known for its unique works of art. The idol was brought to Tamil Naduby a victorious Rajendra Chola I of the Bengal War and placed at Melakadambur by King Kullottunga I.
Sculptures abound in the temple in bas relief on the outer walls of the sanctum and there is a series on the rishis and Gods who are believed to have worshipped Lord Shiva here besides vignettes from the lives of all the 63 Nayanmar saints of the Shaivite pantheon. Paeans have been sung about the temple by Sundararar and Appar (Saivite saints) and it finds mention in the Thevaram hymns. The immortal lines of Thirunavukkarasar “En kadan pani seithu kedappathe” (My job is only to serve the Lord) were sung in this temple.
Prof K Madhusudanan, visiting faculty, Crescent School of Architecture, who led a group of heritage buffs on a visit, reminds us that “Kalki’s immortal work Ponniyin Selvan set across the entire Chola land starts from Melakadumbur.”
The temple holds special significance for people who have completed 60 years of age as they come here to pray for a long life. People suffering from the malefic effect of the planet Mars pray to Lord Muruga here; in fact it is believed that all the nine planets prayed to Lord Shiva here on their respective days of the week and therefore the shrine is believed to provide relief to anyone reeling under the evil effects of the planets. Finally for students of epigraphy, there are many 12th century inscriptions, some in the Tamil Grantha script which is an added attraction.
How to start the day | Morning Shloka
Karagre Vasate Lakshmi/ Kara Mule
Saraswathi/ Kara Madhye Tu Govindah/
Prabate Kara Darshanam
(On the tip of your fingers is Goddess Lakshmi; on the base of your fingers is Goddess Saraswati; in the middle of your fingers is Lord Govinda. In this manner, look at your palm).